water well problem......pump wont turn off

[TheGoose]

Learned much, you have. Stuck contactors, the problem are.

PS...water logged tanks are the #1 problem.

[texastkikker]

Learned much, you have. Stuck contactors, the problem are.

PS...water logged tanks are the #1 problem.

That is what I think is the issue......contactors are stuck in the control box, but only happens every now and then.
Tanks were replaced 9/17/2021 (one had a leak and I just replaced both of them at that time). I tapped on them both top and bottom and sounds "hollow" on the top section where the air should be, and they sounded "full" on the bottom half where the water should be (if that makes sense), so I ruled that out.

[TheGoose]

Unfortunately, in today's world, things just don't last.

Drain the water out of the tanks. Check the pressure on the tire stem, it should be about 38 PSIG. If it is not 38, air it up to 38, and check again in two weeks. If it does not stay at 38, tank is bad. If you get water out, tank is bad. Assuming you do have a bladder tank or diaphragm tank and not a hydropneumatic tank.

[texastkikker]

I will drain the tanks tonight when I get home. Pretty sure, with the valves/plumbing that I currently have I can isolate them, while still being able to drain them, and keep the house pressured up and do it really quick. (tell the kids not to shower for 10 minutes or so). I think I checked them when the water system was full at 60 psi and no pump running, no water being used, and they were appx. 57psi.
Tanks are the bladder type.

[Unknownstrohsfan]

Your well guy is full of #X%^&X. I have owned and repaired my well for 35+ years. The on and off to your pump is 100% mechanical. The control box houses your capacitor and start run relay and it is upstream of the pressure switch. ( checked the internet and saw the control can be in front or in back of PS) That makes no difference. Your pressure switch is sticking or faulty. First turn the power off to the well. Take the cover off your pressure switch. Get some 200 grit sand paper and slide it in between the contacts of the pressure switch. Polish the surface of the contacts. Put the cap back on and power it up. Cycle your well a few times. Just turn a couple hose bibs on and let it run. Either way at 60 psi the switch opens if it is not sick. Changing the PS is very simple. I will PM you my number.

The only place the downhole wires and the supply wires come together is at the pressure switch, if the pump is running when the pressure switch contacts are open(for sure) then that means the neutral wire, and both supply wires /240 v are all touching together , not likely. Seems like you would see some melted insulation on the wires, or arc marks on the switch enclosure or something.