i bought a new shed to replace an old on that deteriorated from the wooden bases/floor from termites after so many years. This new one i want to put on a concrete slab and will have a conctractor make it. My question is here is about the dimension of the new shed (7ft 3-3/4in x 8ft 2in) , do I have him make a pad for the exact dimensions, or alittle bigger? if so, what should it be? When I was calling around, said I needed a pad for 7ft 6" x 8ft 6" x 4"deep. Is that ok or should it be bigger or smaller?
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btw, can't believe Im a junior member again.....not sure what happened since last year. -
I like the idea of making it a little larger than the footprint for two reasons, 1. Anchor bolts won't be right at the edge of the pad, 2. If it's in a grassy area, you won't be weed eating against the shed walls.I told them we’ve already got oneComment
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Make little larger and with a porch at the door openingComment
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As a general rule, you don't make the slab larger than the "building," because when water runs down the shed walls, it can then run back into the shed. I don't think you want that. As far as anchors, I am not sure what is recommended, but I would have the contractor put dowels set into the slab and then drill holes in whatever the base plate is or, if it's just a narrow channel frame, put the dowels inside the line of the shed wall and find a way to tie the channel to the dowels.
On the idea of extending the slab for an entry ramp or a landing, that's is a solid plan, but have him pour it with a slope away from the door.Comment
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Make the pad larger than the shed and if sheathing 4x8 material maybe change Dimensions to be less wasteful of material.Comment
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Agree with Lou Reed on this one, except for the “porch”. If the slab is larger, water running down the shed walls will pool on the concrete, and can get underneath the bottom wall plates. Even if it doesn’t enter the shed, it will keep the bottom plates wet, accelerating rot. Hopefully, anything coming in contact with the concrete is pressure treated to extend the life.Exported TexanComment
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You can always slope the finish surface away slightly to drain water. You can put gutters up too.BOT
Bacon, Oysters & Tacos
It's not red vs. blue, it's the state vs. you
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Put a 4 or 5 foot pad in front of the door.
Best thing i did on my stg bldg
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As BBCAT said don’t waste material. Looking at your dimensions, just make it 8’x8’. Use 4x8 siding. Make the height 7’11” so you’ll have a 1” overhang on your slab. Water will run down the siding on to the ground, not back into the shed. No cutting for the siding. As for tying the framing to the slab, use anchor bolts measured half the width of a 2x4 measured in from the sides. Or just get a nail driver. The ones that use 22 blanks. They work great.Comment
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Since you're using a slab I don't know if this will help, but I found out that if your building has skids and is on blocks (I guess a slab would work too) it's considered movable and not permanent so no city taxes are paid on it. At least that's how it is in my home town.Life its too short to own ugly handguns and drink fruity whiskey.Comment
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I had to repair my office/guest house for this reason. Had to cut off a couple feet of rotted lumber siding and replace some baseboards.
If you do extend the slab add gutters to the building. The splashing of rain coming off a roof with no gutters that hits concrete will make it splash into any crevices near the bottom.
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pour your slab to look like thisComment
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